Glycolic acid is a skincare ingredient — an alpha hydroxy acid that loosens dead skin cells so they shed. It is used for dull skin, fine lines, acne, blackheads, uneven tone and dark marks. It is a cosmetic and dermatological ingredient rather than a medicine, which is why it does not appear on the medicine register.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is not a registered medicine and does not appear on the South African Medicine Price Registry. It is sold in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and — at higher strengths — in professional chemical peels.
It is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), originally derived from sugar cane, though what is used commercially is synthesised.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of any AHA, and that single fact explains its reputation. Smaller molecules penetrate the skin more readily, so glycolic acid works faster and deeper than lactic or mandelic acid — and irritates more. The trade-off is direct: more effect, more risk of stinging, redness and peeling.
How it works. It dissolves the bonds holding dead cells to the skin surface, so they shed rather than accumulating. With continued use it also stimulates collagen production in the deeper skin, which is why it affects fine lines and not only surface texture.
Concentration and pH both matter, and most people only look at one:
| Strength | Where |
|---|---|
| 5–10% | Over-the-counter cleansers and lotions; gentle |
| 10–15% | Serums and toners; the usual home-use range |
| 20–30% | Stronger home products; irritation likely |
| 30–70% | Professional peels only |
A low-pH 8% product can be stronger than a high-pH 15% one. If a product does not state its pH, the percentage alone tells you less than you think.
AHAs and BHAs differ, and the difference is practical. Glycolic acid (AHA) is water-soluble and works on the surface — best for dullness, texture, fine lines and pigmentation. Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble, so it penetrates into pores — better for blackheads, whiteheads and oily, acne-prone skin. For congested pores, salicylic acid is usually the better choice.
A note on placement: glycolic acid is a skincare ingredient, not a digestive medicine. This page’s category is being corrected.
What is Glycolic Acid commonly used for?
- Dull, rough or uneven skin texture — its most reliable effect.
- Fine lines and early ageing, through exfoliation and collagen stimulation.
- Acne, particularly where the problem is congestion and dead skin rather than deep inflammation.
- Blackheads and clogged pores, though salicylic acid usually works better.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — the dark marks left after spots heal. A very common concern in South Africa, and one where glycolic acid genuinely helps.
- Melasma, alongside other treatments and strict sun protection.
- Keratosis pilaris — the rough bumps on upper arms and thighs.
- Ingrown hairs and razor bumps, including pseudofolliculitis barbae.
- Scarring, modestly, in professional peels.
- Rough heels, elbows and knees, in body preparations.
Two things that determine whether it helps or harms.
Sunscreen is not optional with it. Glycolic acid thins the outer dead-cell layer and increases sun sensitivity for about a week after use. Without daily sunscreen you will make pigmentation worse rather than better — which is the single commonest way people get a bad result, particularly when treating dark marks.
Deeper skin tones need more caution, not less. Glycolic acid works well on all skin tones, but richly pigmented skin responds to irritation by producing more pigment. Over-exfoliating, using too high a strength, or peeling aggressively can leave dark patches that take months to fade. Go slower, use lower strengths, and stop at the first sign of persistent redness.
How Glycolic Acid fits into this medicine category
Its actual relatives are skincare ingredients rather than digestive medicines:
| Group | Examples | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| AHAs | Glycolic acid, lactic, mandelic | Texture, dullness, fine lines, pigmentation |
| BHAs | Salicylic acid | Blackheads, oily and acne-prone skin |
| Retinoids | Retinol, tretinoin, adapalene | Acne and ageing — stronger evidence than AHAs |
| Pigment treatments | Hydroquinone, azelaic acid, niacinamide | Dark marks, melasma |
| Benzoyl peroxide | — | Inflammatory acne |
| Topical steroids | Clomaderm | Inflammation — not exfoliation |
Retinoids have stronger evidence than AHAs for both acne and ageing. Do not start both at once, and generally do not use them on the same night — the combination is a common cause of a badly irritated skin barrier.
See the digestive and stomach medicines hub.
What to check before using Glycolic Acid
- Start low and infrequently. 5–8 per cent, twice a week, building up. Most bad experiences come from starting too strong, too often.
- Use it at night, and sunscreen every morning — SPF 30 or higher, reapplied.
- Do not use it with retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or other acids on the same night.
- Do not use it on broken, sunburnt, waxed or freshly shaved skin.
- Patch test behind the ear or on the jaw for a few days first.
- Avoid the eye area.
- Stop a week before waxing, laser treatment, threading or a professional peel.
Speak to a doctor or pharmacist first if you:
- Have eczema, psoriasis, rosacea or a compromised skin barrier.
- Have very sensitive skin, or a history of reacting to skincare.
- Are using prescription retinoids or acne treatments.
- Have a history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or keloid scarring.
- Are pregnant or breastfeeding — topical AHAs are generally considered acceptable, but confirm, and note that oral and topical retinoids are not.
- Have melasma, which needs a considered approach and can worsen with irritation.
- Have active cold sores or infected skin.
Possible cautions and when to ask a pharmacist or doctor
Common effects: tingling or stinging on application, mild redness, dryness and light flaking. These usually settle as the skin adjusts.
“Purging” is real but limited. Increased cell turnover can bring existing congestion to the surface in the first few weeks, in areas where you normally break out. A new breakout in a place you never break out is a reaction, not purging — stop.
Stop and seek advice for:
- Persistent redness, burning or stinging beyond a few minutes.
- Peeling, cracking or a shiny, tight, sensitive skin — an over-exfoliated barrier. Stop all actives, use a plain moisturiser and sunscreen, and give it two to four weeks.
- Darkening of the skin where it has been used.
- Blistering, swelling or oozing.
- A rash spreading beyond the treated area.
Get emergency help for swelling of the face, lips or tongue with difficulty breathing, or a widespread blistering rash.
See a doctor or dermatologist rather than self-treating if:
- Acne is inflammatory, painful, cystic, or scarring. Scarring is permanent, and effective prescription treatment exists — this is worth going for early, not after years.
- Pigmentation is not improving after several months, or is worsening.
- You have melasma, which is stubborn and needs a proper plan.
- A mole or mark is changing in size, shape or colour, or bleeding.
- Skin is persistently irritated despite stopping.
- You are considering a professional peel — strengths above 30 per cent should be applied by a trained practitioner, not at home.
Related medicine guides
Frequently asked questions
What is glycolic acid cream used for? Exfoliating the skin — for dullness, rough texture, fine lines, acne, blackheads, and dark marks left after spots heal.
How does it work? It dissolves the bonds holding dead cells to the skin surface so they shed, and with continued use stimulates collagen in the deeper skin.
Glycolic or salicylic acid? Glycolic (an AHA) is water-soluble and works on the surface — best for texture, dullness and pigmentation. Salicylic (a BHA) is oil-soluble and gets into pores — better for blackheads and oily, acne-prone skin.
What strength should I start with? 5–8 per cent, twice a week, building up slowly. Most bad experiences come from starting too strong, too often.
Do I need sunscreen? Yes, and it is not optional. Glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity for about a week, and without daily sunscreen you will worsen pigmentation rather than improve it.
Can I use it with retinol? Not on the same night, and do not start both at once. The combination commonly damages the skin barrier.
Is it safe on darker skin? Yes, and it works well — but irritation can trigger extra pigment. Use lower strengths, go slower, and stop at the first sign of persistent redness.
Is my breakout purging or a reaction? Purging happens where you normally break out and settles within a few weeks. A breakout somewhere you never break out is a reaction — stop.
Can I use it in pregnancy? Topical AHAs are generally considered acceptable, but confirm with your doctor. Retinoids, oral or topical, are not.